With new creative director Demna Gvasalia stepping in at Gucci, many feel that his aesthetic is ruining the brand
In the ever changing world of luxury fashion, Gucci has always been a bold and vibrant identity in the industry. From the colorful, provocative designs of Tom Ford to the wild and expressive monograms of Alessandro Michele, the brand built its legacy on color, confidence, and fun. However, since Demna Gvasalia stepped in as creative director, many critics feel that the energy has faded, being replaced by something far more muted and bland.
Gvasalia came to Gucci after a decade at Spanish fashion house, Balenciaga. While at Balenciaga, Gvasalia achieved numerous successes or viral trends such as the “sock shoe” or the “Croc heel.” However he faced a nearly career ending controversy in his November 2022 ad campaign titled “Gift Shop,” where young children were photographed with teddy bears wrapped in leather bondage. Balenciaga then retracted the ads and lost millions of dollars. He then moved to Gucci and has had a hard time leaving the dark minimalist aesthetic behind.
One of the biggest changes since Gvasalia’s rein on Gucci is the incredible lack of color. Recent Gucci collections lean heavily on blacks, grays, and washed-out tones. While this can feel intentional and modern, it removes the visual excitement that once identified the brand. One famous look in their most recent collection was modeled by famous “model” and Nepo-baby Amelia Gray Hamlin. She was dressed in a plain white tee, black yoga pants, and a red bag. Groundbreaking.
Compared to the Tom Ford era, the difference is night and day. Ford’s Gucci was bold, sexy, and impossible to ignore. Bright colors, daring designs, and lively runways that made every collection feel like an event, rather than just clothing.
The Michele era redefined Gucci in the 2010’s. It brought a funky and interesting view to the brand that no one had seen before. Rather than Ford’s vibrant colors we saw rainbow and patterns that drew you in from the window. Michele was also famous for his use of twins throughout his many years with Gucci, from the runway to the Met Gala, where Michele was dressed as a twin with Jared Leto, twice.
Under Gvasalia, however, there is nothing new or innovative. The focus on archival references and minimalism is coming across as safe, rather than GUCCI! Instead of pushing the brand forward, it feels like Gvasalia is holding it back. Some even feel like Gvasalia is taking advantage of those who love the brand of Gucci. Once recent item that is being pushed by the brand is a $24,000 black coat, only available in one size,
Fashionista Arizona Alexakis pointed this out directly in my interview with her, saying that the brand has lost its “color and sense of fun.” She emphasized that the earlier collections had felt more expressive and alive, while more recent ones feel more restrained and depressing,
In the end, Gucci’s shift under Gvasalia is not necessarily a failure, but it is a clear departure. We can all recognize that it is difficult to watch their most recent runway and call whatever that was, “Gucci”. It truly makes me wonder what the future of all luxury houses will look like. Is this the end of the Gucci that we once loved, and are other brands soon to follow?